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from http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?highlight=hollendaise&postid=337442276#post337442276
Untested.
Directions
- To be honest, I am extremely anal about any butter-emulsion sauces, so I don't mean any offense here, but after watching that, it's really a good video of creating a shitty hollandaise - even though he's got some aspects right, the end result is a heavy, dense, flat sauce with a texture similar to a gravy - yes, it'll be stable, and, yes, it'll taste the same, but it won't have the light, fluffy, airiness to it that a correct hollandaise should have (in terms of texture, think of an angel food cake compared to a pound cake).
- First off, you'll want to create the initial emulsion with air (known as a sabayon) - you do this by whisking the hell out of your yolks with cold water (about 1 tbsp per yolk) for about a minute or until very frothy. This traps the air inside the yolk proteins. You can use lemon juice or wine, but I find that with the acidity, the yolks don't get as fluffy.
- Next, you do not want to slowly cook the yolks over low heat. Crank your heat up to medium high and, again, whisk the fuck out of your sabayon (I prefer a saucepan) - don't stop or you'll end up with scrambled eggs. You'll notice the mixture triple in size. Once the eggs start to thicken (about 30-45sec, you'll begin to see traces of the bottom of your pot as you whisk) count to 5 and remove from the heat. Continue to whisk for 30 seconds to allow the residual heat to cool. The reason for doing this over higher heat is because you want to trap that air inside the yolks as they begin to coagulate - however you whisk too much, the yolks get overworked and lose their ability to hold air. Think of it like blowing up a balloon covered in wet cement - you want to get as much air into that balloon before it hardens, but too much and it'll pop, and too little it'll be flat when it hardens. As you can see in the video, the guy's yolks looked like they barely doubled in size as he was stirring over low heat because he wasn't really trapping much air in them and overworking the yolk.
- Also, by adding the butter in a tbsp at a time, you are further flattening out the sauce during the whole time you are whisking. Since the eggs have already created an initial emulsion with the air, you can pour the butter in a steady stream while whisking gently without worries of it breaking. Just keep in mind each yolk can hold approximately 1/2 cup of clarified butter. Finally finish the sauce with a quick whisking of lemon juice and cayenne/tobasco.
- Sorry for the derail, but I hate when people compare yellow sludge to a hollandaise.
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